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Seated at
C. D’souza

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1. Philomena D’souza supervised her father-in-law Caridade D’souza’s eatery C. D’souza at Dhobi Talao since the 1990s.

 
 
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2. She was assisted by her four sons who were based in Bombay alternately.

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3. Lately, she had the company of Bella Athavle, who sat on a separate table and watched the world go by the gully.

 
 
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4. Nothing has changed since her father-in-law’s time- the same sugar bowls, sweet jars and wooden furniture.

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5. Philomena sat at C. D’souza from 11:30 till closing time at 9. At 1:30 she would wait for her son Tommy to arrive.

 

C. D’souza

Opposite Sonapur Church, Dukar Gully, Dhobi Talao.

9th June, 2020.

 
 
 

Caridade D’souza, a Goan migrant to Bombay, named his first eatery in the city after himself, and the second after his wife.

C. D’souza at Dhobi Talao served homely Goan food- pork vindaloo, potato chops, Goa sausage chilly fry- and Goan sweets- bolinhas, jam tarts, plum cakes- all baked at their bakery down the gully.

The second eatery at Medows Street, Caridade renamed Marosa, after his wife Maria Ruzai D’souza. Marosa was originally called A. Comba and run by an Italian confectioner. Caridade partnered with the Italian and then took over.

In Bombay lore there is another version. The late Mr. Boman Kohinoor of Britannia & Co. Restaurant explained that the Italian and Goan Christian partners of Marosa had an agreement- if the Italian dies first his share would go to the Goan, and if the Goan dies first his share would go to the Italian. The Italian died so the Goan got the whole share. Lucky!

Marosa served continental food and the best chicken patties in the locality. After Caridade’s and his son’s demise, his daughter-in-law Philomena took over, running the eateries with her sons, and sometimes singlehandedly. Marosa is now Tata Motors. C. D’souza was closed for lockdown. Both had similar furniture.

Philomena passed away in April and her son Tommy suddenly on 8th June 2020.

 
 

Photos by Hashim Badani.